Shaving Against The Grain

By Eliza Ward · On March 31, 2019 · Updated: October 16, 2026

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Shaving and your skin

Shave after a warm shower or a warm compress, use a shaving cream or gel, and shave in the direction the hair grows.^[1]
Razor bumps and ingrown hairs come from hairs curling back into the skin; shaving less closely and replacing blades after 5 to 7 shaves can help.^[2]^[4]
See a dermatologist for bumps that are painful, infected, keep coming back or leave dark marks.^[5]
Dry shaving, shaving too fast or using a dull blade can cause razor burn.^[3]

This guide is general information, not medical advice.

We all know that the rule of thumb is to shave in the same direction as your hair grows. In this article, we will discuss shaving against the grain for a smoother and closer shave without irritation.

Pros of Shaving Against The Grain

There are some advantages to shaving against the grain, although knowing your face, contours, and curves is just a matter of knowing your face. Every individual’s skin reacts differently to shaving, certain shaving products, and different razor types. So, as a rule, you must find what works best for you. Whereas some individuals have a hair pattern allowing them to shave in any direction, others have more intricate patterns in which shaving against the grain can cause severe irritation. Most professional barbers start shaving with the grain and then shave sideways against the grain. Shaving against the grain gives you a much closer and smoother shave, which is the greatest advantage for the most part. Along with a closer shave, another benefit of shaving against the grain is that your shave may last a bit longer if you can do so without the risk of irritation. Shaving with the grain is a less close shave, so the hairs are left slightly longer and will grow out faster. Although shaving against the grain is risky, it can give you more time between shaves.

Cons of Shaving Against The Grain

When you shave against the grain, you cut the hair very close to the skin, making it appear much denser and thicker for one, which can likewise irritate the other hand. You will likely risk getting razor bumps and ingrown hairs when shaving against the grain because you need to pull the skin slightly for a closer shave. Because the hairs are cut so short and close to the skin when you shave against the grain, you have a greater chance of getting ingrown hairs. This happens because the skin covers the hair follicle much easier when short, causing it to grow inwards. Ingrown hairs are much more likely to develop in men with thick or curly hair, particularly African men with tighter curls. Although shaving against the grain will give you the close shave you desire, you risk getting razor bumps, ingrown hairs, and irritation.

If You Have To, How

So, you have decided to try shaving against the grain. By following these tried and trusted tips, you should be able to get a close and irritation-free shave, depending on your skin. So here is how you should go about it;

Rub your hand or a credit card across your face and determine the direction of growth of your facial hair; the area where you encounter resistance is against the grain.
Take a hot shower or wash your face in warm water and ensure it is well hydrated.
Apply a high-quality shaving gel or cream to soften the hair.
Please first shave with the grain and then reapply shaving gel or cream to shave against the grain, only in the necessary areas.

Your Pre- and post-shaving routine is vital in any shaving regimen, whether against or with the grain. Well-prepared and cared-for skin is much easier to shave and has much less risk of irritation, ingrown hairs, and razor bumps at the end of the day. Cleanse and moisturize your face properly, and use high-quality shaving products and a high-quality razor that works well for you.

Using Shaving Oil

You may have encountered this, but a good-quality shaving oil is another great breakthrough in shaving against the grain. Another plus is that the shaving oil gives excellent moisturization to keep your skin smooth and supple. Here is a superb video showing how to shave using shaving oil; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZEc76O-fmo

Getting a Firm Handle on Shaving

Shaving against the grain requires a high-quality razor and the right blade selection. A three-blade razor, which is for sensitive skin, is a good option to prevent irritation. Could you ensure your razor is easily handled and has a comfortable grip? I have found that a razor with a flexible, pivoting head works well for shaving against the grain.

Concluding

So the final verdict is that shaving against the grain gives you a much closer and smoother shave, but if done incorrectly, it can lead to razor bumps, ingrown hairs, and irritation. Therefore, the right shaving regimen and a good razor are vital. As I have mentioned, a razor with a flexible, pivoting head works well for shaving against the grain, and an easy-grip handle also helps with this shaving method. Ultimately, it is up to your technique; with proper technique, and depending on how your hair grows, you should get a close shave against the grain with no hassles.

Customer Reviews that Shave Against The Grain

Sources

American Academy of Dermatology. Hair removal: How to shave. Accessed October 16, 2026.
American Academy of Dermatology. 6 razor bump prevention tips from dermatologists. Accessed October 16, 2026.
Cleveland Clinic. Razor Burn: Causes & Treatment. Accessed October 16, 2026.
Cleveland Clinic. Ingrown Hair. Accessed October 16, 2026.
American Academy of Dermatology. Acne-like breakouts could be folliculitis. Accessed October 16, 2026.